Minimal intervention, organically farmed, traditionally crafted, ultra-pure Rioja – that’s the promise of Bodegas Cornelio Dinastia. After 8 generations of producing top-quality wines and burgeoning to become one of the top wineries in Spain, we’d say they’ve met their goal. This “Seleccion Autor” from the four-star 2018 vintage – grown on 40-plus-year-old Rioja Alta vines and garnering 95 points – exudes a fantastically complex freshness and purity that truly over-delivers for the under $31 price tag!
Fun fact: The big brother of this wine, made in the exact same style from younger (but still 40+ year old vines), in the very same 2018 vintage, was named by Decanter as one of the Top 50 Wines in the World! No two ways about it – this sounds like a $65 bottle at least...but not around here! We don’t get a lot of Crianza Rioja in general, but lately, it seems as though some of Spain’s top producers are shying away from the extra-aging Gran Riserva designation. The freshness, the purity, that “nowhere to hide the terroir” attitude is changing the conversation around Rioja wines – and in this case, at least – I’m here for it!
Speaking of terroir, that’s exactly what Cornelio Dinastia aims to show off in their entire portfolio. With more than 20 micro-plots in the foothills of Tolono, Sierra Cantabria, the producer allows the peculiarities of the various soils and microclimates to show off by utilizing organic farming techniques and low-intervention winemaking methods, opting instead to follow traditional standards of generations past to guide the fruit to the bottle in its most expressive format. This wine underwent a meticulous grape-selection process from bush-trained, over-40-year-old vines in San Vicente, Briones, and San Asensio, grown on the sloping hills of the Sierra Cantabria. Manual harvest and fermentation in American oak finishes with in-bottle aging to produce an immaculately balanced wine with delightful complexity and intensity.
Seductively floral, with this hibiscus, lilac, and rose petal bouquet, followed by an onrush of cranberry tea, fresh-picked strawberries, red currants, a dusty clay accent, and then more raspberries and red fruits, finishing on a dried and savory herb note – thyme, oregano, white pepper, bay laurel, star anise – this is so, so good! Warm and silky texture throughout, with a bit of that deceptive “old man” strength, tons of secondary spice (smoked paprika?), and even a touch of licorice too. Almost CdP-esque with a nice balance of ripe red fruits, considerable spice, and savory roasted herbs. This is balanced and beautiful, with a very expressive minerality that lingers long after each sip. I love it. You’ll love it. 40-plus-year-old vines from Rioja Alta, on land tended by over 8 generations of the fantastic Bodegas Cornelio Dinastia family – rightfully nabbing 95 points for the nutty-low price of just $31 – the impossible has been done! Move with speed, good people – this won’t last long!
PAIRING IDEAS: My go-to for this wine is an Andalusian Chorizo and Chickpea Stew...garlicky, meaty, sweet, and savory – this one-pot wonder takes me back to my globe-hopping days in the south of Spain. The local village where I first had this served me some fermented goat’s milk alongside it. Trust me – this Rioja is a FAR better way to go.
