From bottle, the 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses is one of the twin pinnacles of the Fèvre portfolio, wafting from the glass with a lovely bouquet of citrus blossom, mandarin, oyster shell and wet stones—exactly as it did from barrel. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and elegantly glossy, with incisive acids, fine-boned structure and a precise, elegantly mineral finish. The Clos many be the most powerful, but the Preuses is the more elegant.