The Bodega Contador story starts in 1995 when Benjamin Romeo, winemaker and vine-grower, acquired a centuries old cave hewn into the rock beneath the Castle of San Vicente de la Sonsierra (Rioja). In 1996 he made the first vintage of his ?La Cueva del Contador? wine and started to buy vineyards for his plan to become a ?bodeguero? - a wine producer.
Given the prices of Benjamin Romeo's wines, one should expect more. His Cueva del Contador isn't that impressive, and while this wine is better it's still a bit flat and raisiny, with molasses and a stewed black-cherry character. Romeo's wines just don't seem on the ball.?MICHAEL SCHACHNER