Lavish yet acutely balanced, Wittmann's basic-label Sp?tburgunder offers deep, ripe blackberry and red currant flavors off set by bristling acidity. Layers of bramble, toast and smoke add complexity to nose and palate, along with a reverberating crushed-granite finish. Framed by fine, persistent tannins, its approachable already but should show beautifully for another decade to come.?ANNA LEE C. IIJIMA